
Complete guide to the types of metals used for jewelry and how to choose what suits you
Atelier Devi helps you understand the differences between the materials jewelry is made from so you can make the right choice based on style, budget, and durability. In this article, we will look at: gold-plated stainless steel, gold-plated brass, gold-plated silver/vermeil, spun gold, and solid gold .
1. Stainless Steel Gold Plated (Stainless Steel PVD / Electroplated)
Description:
316L stainless steel is a hard, corrosion-resistant metal often used in fashion watches and heavy jewelry. Surfaces can be gold-plated by PVD or electroplating, with a thin layer of approximately 0.2–0.5 microns.
Advantages:
-
Scratch and corrosion resistant.
-
Ideal for statement jewelry or massive fashion pieces.
-
Low cost of gold, which allows for affordable prices.
Disadvantages:
-
It is not a precious metal and has no intrinsic value , unlike gold or silver.
-
The gold tone is cooler and less warm than vermeil or spun gold, giving a less premium look.
-
It is not suitable for fine and delicate jewelry , such as thin chains or earrings with small pearls, due to the rigidity and weight of the metal.
-
Most stainless steel jewelry production takes place in China and other Asian countries, where regulations are not as strict as in Europe. Unlike precious metals, which are verified and marked by authorities (e.g. ANPC in Romania), stainless steel has no legal title or verification requirements , which gives manufacturers more freedom, but can affect consistency and quality.
-
Gold plate cannot be reconditioned as easily as silver or spun gold.
Ideal for lovers of: massive jewelry, statement earrings, fashion bracelets and pendants — pieces oriented more towards trend and accessibility, not towards intrinsic value or luxury durability.
2. Gold-Plated Brass
Description:
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, plated with gold (~0.5–1 micron). It is used for affordable, visually appealing jewelry.
Advantages:
-
Very affordable in price.
-
It looks elegant initially and can imitate gold.
Disadvantages:
-
It wears out quickly, especially at the edges and in friction areas.
-
The base metal may come out and the gold may fade.
- Products cannot be reconditioned or easily recycled
Ideal for fast-fashion lovers.
3. Gold-plated silver – layer under 1–1.5 microns
Gold-plated silver with a layer under 2 microns is part of the "fast fashion" category, even though many brands do not position it as such.
Advantages:
-
Initially elegant appearance, close to gold.
-
More affordable production cost than vermeil or spun gold.
Disadvantages:
-
Thin layer → wears out quickly, especially on rings or bracelets worn frequently.
-
It requires constant reconditioning and care to maintain its shine.
-
The gold tone is lighter, looking closer to silver than warm gold.
Ideal for: Jewelry where affordability matters more than long-term durability. About 95% of silver-plated jewelry falls into this category, although some are sold at premium prices. If the thickness of the plating is not mentioned in the product description, ask before purchasing to make an informed decision on the right price.
4. Vermeil / Silver plated with gold 2 microns or more
Description: Vermeil refers to 925 sterling silver plated with 2–2.5 microns or more of gold, sometimes with an additional protective layer (palladium and e-coating). This falls into the premium jewelry category.
In this category, manufacturers are constantly innovating to extend the lifespan of their pieces and bring them as close as possible to that of gold jewelry. A brand's expertise lies in collaborating with capable suppliers who understand the reactions between metals and have the equipment necessary to apply coatings to limit the exposure of the gold layer — this makes the difference in quality and durability.
Advantages:
-
Warm and premium look, very close to solid gold.
-
Increased resistance to wear and discoloration of gold.
-
Possibility of professional reconditioning to maintain shine and color for years.
Disadvantages:
-
More expensive than silver plated with gold below 2 microns.
-
Frequently worn rings and bracelets require extra care (avoiding water and contact with acidic substances or perfumes).
Ideal for: earrings, pendants and pieces worn often, but not daily, that combine elegance and durability.
4. Gold-Filled
Description:
Gold-plated consists of a thick layer of 14K or 18K gold, 50–100 microns thick, applied mechanically (not chemically, as is the case with plating). It is one of the biggest innovations in the world of jewelry, offering the premium look and durability of solid gold at a more affordable price.
Advantages:
-
Identical appearance to solid gold (14K or 18K) and very durable.
-
It withstands everyday wear and tear and can last over 10 years.
-
Hypoallergenic and suitable for sensitive skin.
Disadvantages:
- Higher production cost than vermeil or plated silver, which is reflected in a higher price for the consumer.
- Due to the production method, spun gold offers little flexibility in creating detailed and sculptural patterns, limiting the design of pieces, especially earrings and pendants.
Ideal for: everyday jewelry
5. Solid gold (14K, 18K most commonly used)
Description:
Solid gold jewelry is 100% 14K or 18K gold, with no other layers of metal.
Advantages:
- Unlimited lifespan; can be passed down from generation to generation.
- Premium, warm and elegant look.
- It can be reconditioned and polished whenever needed.
- It can be resold, having market value.
- The value increases over time, depending on the gold price.
- Sustainable material, 100% recyclable.
Disadvantages:
-
The most expensive material.
Ideal for: luxury jewelry, statement pieces, important gifts, jewelry that you want to wear often and not worry about losing color.
How to choose what suits you
At Atelier Devi we believe in "less is more". Out of respect for the planet and for you. Why buy 5 pairs of earrings that fade when you can choose just one good pair that will last you a lifetime?
Therefore, our recommendation is to choose jewelry that combines durability with a premium look: vermeil, gold-plated or 14K/18K gold.
Don't just look at the price or how the piece looks when it's new. Think about how long it will last and how it will look in years to come .
If you resonate with this philosophy, discover our collections – always created according to the same principles.






